Hello, everyone!
Welcome back to Cosette’s Beauty Pantry, where we explore beauty routines that feel good on the outside and sit right with our values. I’ve written before about the EU ban on a key chemical in some gel polishes, and the question keeps coming up: Are gel manicures actually safe?
Personally, I keep my nails natural. No gels, no acrylics, no long-wear systems — just my own nails, cared for gently with plant-based oils, a good diet, and the occasional cruelty-free polish when I feel like a little colour. That choice has made me more curious (and a bit more cautious) about what goes into the gel manicures so many of us love. So let’s look at the risks honestly, without the scare tactics.
The TPO ban and what it really means
As I shared in my earlier post, from 1 September 2025 the European Union banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) in cosmetic products. TPO is a photoinitiator — the ingredient that helps gel polish harden under UV or LED light into that glossy, long-lasting finish.
It was classified as a Category 1B CMR substance (carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction) mainly because of animal studies in which rats were given high oral doses. Those doses were far higher than anything you’d encounter from a properly cured manicure, and there are no human studies showing the same reproductive effects from typical nail use. Once cured, most of the TPO is locked into the polymer.
Important clarification: gel manicures themselves were not banned. Many brands already offer TPO-free formulas, and more have reformulated since the ban. Similar restrictions began taking effect in the UK during 2026. If you do get gels, it’s worth asking whether the products are TPO-free.
Other risks that matter
Even without TPO, gel manicures come with a few well-known downsides:
- UV/LED lamp exposure – Repeated sessions can contribute to premature ageing of the skin on the hands. LED lamps are generally lower risk than older UV ones, but protection (sunscreen or fingerless gloves) is still sensible.
- Damage to the natural nail – Filing the surface for adhesion, plus harsh or incomplete removal, can thin, weaken or peel the nail plate over time.
- Allergic reactions – Ingredients such as HEMA can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive people. Once sensitised, it can become a lasting problem.
- Hygiene and incomplete curing – Uncured product or poor salon practices raise the chance of irritation or infection.
None of this means every gel manicure is dangerous. It does mean the convenience of two-to-three-week wear comes with trade-offs, especially if you have them continuously without recovery time.
What I do instead
Because I keep my nails natural, my focus stays on strengthening and protecting what I already have. Regular olive-oil or coconut-oil massages, biotin-rich plant foods, gentle filing in one direction, and acetone-free removers when I wear regular polish have kept my nails healthier than they ever were during the years I experimented with longer-wear systems. When I do want colour, I reach for plant-based, cruelty-free polishes free of animal-derived ingredients — simple, pretty, and easy to remove without trauma.
If you love gels and don’t want to give them up, there are ways to reduce the risks: choose TPO-free (and preferably HEMA-free) formulas, protect the skin around your nails from the lamp, insist on proper curing and gentle soak-off removal, and give your natural nails real breaks between sets.
Final thoughts
Beauty choices are personal. For me, natural nails feel aligned with the same values that led me to stop dying my hair in 2024 — less intervention, more care for what’s already there. That doesn’t mean gels are “bad”; it just means I’ve decided the long-term health of my nail plate matters more than the extra weeks of wear.
Have you switched to TPO-free gels, taken a break from them, or (like me) decided to keep things natural? I’d love to hear what works for you in the comments.
Until next time, take gentle care of those hands.
Stay beautiful and curious,
