Hello, everyone!
Welcome back to Cosette's Beauty Pantry! Today, we’re diving into a topic that’s been making waves in the beauty world, particularly for those of you who love a flawless gel manicure: the European Union’s ban on trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO, in cosmetic products, effective from 1 September 2025. If you’re wondering what TPO is, why it’s been banned, and how this change might affect your nail routine, you’re in the right place. Let’s break it all down in a way that’s clear, practical, and, of course, beauty-focused!
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What Is TPO, and Why Is It Used in Nail Products?
TPO, short for trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, is a chemical compound widely used as a photoinitiator in UV-cured gel nail products. In simpler terms, it’s the ingredient that helps your gel polish or builder gel harden and set when exposed to UV or LED light. Its popularity in the nail industry stems from its efficiency—it works quickly, curing thick layers of gel evenly to give you that glossy, durable finish we all adore. TPO’s molecular properties make it particularly effective for professional salon systems, ensuring a stable, non-yellowing result that’s perfect for everything from builder gels to top coats.
You’ll find TPO in many gel polishes and artificial nail systems, typically at concentrations up to 5% for professional use. It’s been a go-to for nail technicians because it performs reliably under the 365 to 405 nanometre range of LED lamps, making it a staple in salons across the globe. But as of September 2025, this ingredient will no longer be permitted in cosmetics in the EU, and it’s causing quite a stir. So, what’s prompted this decision?
Why Is TPO Being Banned?
The EU’s decision to ban TPO is rooted in its commitment to consumer safety, guided by the precautionary principle embedded in the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). In 2023, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) reclassified TPO as a Category 1B Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, or Reprotoxic (CMR) substance, specifically citing its reproductive toxicity based on animal studies. A 2020 study showed reproductive effects in rats exposed to high oral doses of TPO (600 milligrams per kilogram per day), which raised red flags for regulators. While these exposure levels are far higher than what you’d encounter during a manicure, the EU’s hazard-based approach doesn’t take chances. Under the Cosmetics Regulation, CMR Category 1B substances are automatically prohibited in cosmetics unless a derogation is granted, which requires proof of safety at typical exposure levels and evidence that no safer alternatives exist. Unfortunately for TPO, no such derogation was requested before the adoption of Commission Regulation (EU) 2025/877, which officially added TPO to Annex II—the list of prohibited substances in cosmetics—effective 1 September 2025.
This ban isn’t just a minor tweak; it’s part of the EU’s broader effort to tighten safety standards for cosmetics, prioritising human health over convenience. The UK, despite Brexit, is expected to follow suit with a similar restriction in 2026, as it often aligns with EU chemical classifications.
What Does This Mean for the Nail Industry?
The TPO ban is a significant shift for manufacturers, distributors, nail technicians, and consumers alike. From 1 September 2025, cosmetic products containing TPO cannot be placed on the market or made available in the EU. This includes selling, distributing, or even using these products in professional settings like salons. Unlike some regulations that allow a “sell-through” period for existing stock, the EU Cosmetics Regulation offers no such grace period for CMR substances. This means that any TPO-containing products—whether on store shelves or in your salon kit—must be withdrawn by the deadline.
For manufacturers, the race is on to reformulate products. Alternatives like ethyl trimethylbenzoyl phenylphosphinate (TPO-L), bis-trimethylbenzoyl phenylphosphine oxide (BAPO), and hydroxycyclohexyl phenyl ketone are already being introduced. These substitutes aim to mimic TPO’s curing efficiency without the associated health concerns. However, they may cure faster or generate more heat, which could lead to discomfort during application if lamp settings or curing times aren’t adjusted. Brands are also seizing the opportunity to market “TPO-free” products, though this label doesn’t necessarily guarantee a safer product in practical use.
Salons and nail technicians face practical challenges too. They’ll need to audit their product inventories, dispose of TPO-containing gels, and source compliant alternatives. This can be costly, especially for smaller businesses, as reformulation involves stability testing, safety assessments, and updated product registrations. In Cyprus, for example, beauty professionals have expressed concerns about the short timeline to replace stock, but authorities stress that consumer safety comes first.
Is TPO Really Dangerous?
Here’s where things get nuanced. The real-world risk of TPO to consumers is likely very low. When you get a gel manicure, you’re not ingesting or inhaling TPO, and skin contact is minimal once the gel is cured. During the curing process, TPO becomes locked into the solid gel structure, leaving little active material on the nail surface. The rat study that triggered the ban involved high-dose, long-term exposure—conditions far removed from a typical salon visit.
However, the EU’s regulatory approach prioritises hazard over risk. If a substance has the potential to cause harm under any conditions, it’s likely to be banned, regardless of whether those conditions apply to cosmetic use. This contrasts with the risk-based approach in places like the United States, where actual exposure levels are considered more heavily. In 2015, the EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) deemed TPO safe at up to 5% in professional nail products, but this opinion was superseded by the 2023 CMR reclassification.
How Can You Prepare for the Change?
If you’re a nail enthusiast or professional, here are some practical steps to navigate the TPO ban:
1. Check Your Products: Look at the ingredient lists on your gel polishes and nail products. TPO may appear as “Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide” or variations like “Diphenyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide". If you spot it, plan to phase out those products before September 2025.
2. Ask Your Salon: If you’re a client, talk to your nail technician about the products they use. Reputable salons should be transitioning to TPO-free alternatives and can reassure you about compliance.
3. Explore Alternatives: Brands like Kinetics have already reformulated to use TPO-free photoinitiators like TPO-L or TPO-R, which are EU-compliant and effective. Keep an eye out for these as you shop or visit salons.
4. Stay Informed: Regulatory changes happen regularly in the beauty industry. Subscribe to updates from trusted sources or follow brands that prioritise transparency about their formulations.
5. Prioritise Nail Health: Beyond TPO, pay attention to your nails’ overall condition. As dermatologist Tania Vladenis notes, issues like nail discolouration could signal underlying health concerns, so don’t ignore changes in your nails.
The Bigger Picture
The TPO ban is part of a broader EU push to enhance cosmetic safety, as seen in the Omnibus Act VII, which prohibits 22 CMR substances, including TPO. While it may feel disruptive, it’s also an opportunity for innovation. Brands are already developing safer, high-performance alternatives, and the industry is adapting to meet consumer demand for clean beauty. For those of you who love your gel manis, this change doesn’t mean the end of stunning nails—it just means a shift toward safer formulations.
At Cosette's Beauty Pantry, I am all about staying ahead of the curve and keeping you informed. Whether you’re a nail tech or a beauty lover, the TPO ban is a reminder to stay curious and proactive about the products we use. So, let’s keep the conversation going! What are your thoughts on the TPO ban? Are you already using TPO-free products, or is this news prompting you to check your nail polish stash? Drop your thoughts in the comments below—I’d love to hear from you!
Until next time, keep shining.
