Hello, everyone!
Welcome back to Cosette’s Beauty Pantry for another Wisdom Wednesday! As a proud Maltese skincare enthusiast, I’m thrilled to share my take on a topic buzzing in the beauty world: the European Union’s new retinol regulation. Having previously written about my love for retinol in a dedicated blog post, and as someone who uses a 0.2% retinol serum every night, I was keen to dig into what these changes mean for my routine and for all of you across Malta and the EU. Whether you’re a retinol pro or just curious, this post will break down the new rules, why they matter, and how they’ll affect our beauty pantries here in the EU. Let’s dive in!
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Why Retinol Is a Skincare Star
If you caught my earlier retinol post, you’ll know it’s a vitamin A derivative and a powerhouse in the retinoid family. It’s a favourite for boosting cell turnover, stimulating collagen, and tackling everything from fine lines to acne and uneven skin tone. My nightly 0.2% retinol keeps my skin smooth and glowing, and it’s a staple for many because it’s effective at low concentrations and available over the counter, unlike prescription retinoids like tretinoin.
But retinol’s potency can come with side effects like irritation or sensitivity if misused, which has led the EU—our regulatory authority here in Malta—to introduce stricter guidelines to keep us safe. So, what’s changing, and how will it impact us?
The EU’s Retinol Regulation: What’s New?
On 4 April 2024, the European Commission published Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996, updating the EU Cosmetics Regulation to limit retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate in over-the-counter products. Let’s clear up one thing: retinol isn’t being banned, despite some alarmist headlines! Instead, from 1 November 2025, new face and hand products sold in the EU, including Malta, can’t exceed 0.3% retinol equivalent (RE), and body lotions are capped at 0.05% RE. By 1 May 2027, all non-compliant products must be off our shelves. These products will also carry a label: “Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use.”
The regulation addresses concerns about overexposure to vitamin A, which can cause skin irritation or, in extreme cases, health issues like liver toxicity or hypervitaminosis A, especially when combined with high dietary or supplement intake. The EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) found that while topical retinol contributes only a small fraction to overall vitamin A levels, it could push some people—those eating vitamin A-rich foods like fish or taking supplements—over safe limits. The aim is to ensure retinol remains effective and safe for us all.
Why Is This Happening?
Retinol’s popularity has skyrocketed, especially with social media driving its use among younger EU consumers. Overuse or high concentrations can lead to redness, peeling, or sun sensitivity, prompting this regulatory response. The SCCS considered scenarios where someone might use high-strength retinol alongside a vitamin A-heavy diet, setting these limits to minimise risks. The 0.3% cap for face products and 0.05% for body lotions ensure safety, particularly since body products cover larger areas and could increase absorption.
Importantly, prescription retinoids like tretinoin and retinal (retinaldehyde), a more potent but less common over-the-counter option, aren’t affected. This means stronger treatments remain accessible under medical supervision for those of us needing them.
How Does This Affect My 0.2% Retinol Routine?
Living in Malta, I’m directly impacted by EU regulations, but my 0.2% retinol serum is safely below the 0.3% limit for face products, so my routine is unaffected. If your retinol is 0.3% or lower, you’re likely fine too. However, if you use higher strengths—like 0.5% or 1%—you may notice brands reformulating to comply by November 2025, as non-compliant products won’t be sold here after May 2027.
The good news? Experts confirm that 0.3% retinol is still potent enough for anti-ageing, acne, and texture benefits with less irritation risk. Dr Cristina Psomadakis, a dermatologist, notes that lower concentrations are effective for most, and my 0.2% serum proves it works wonders for my skin. For those needing stronger options, dermatologists can prescribe alternatives, or you can explore gentler actives like bakuchiol.
What Does This Mean for Malta?
As an EU member state, Malta will fully adopt these regulations. This means that by late 2025, new retinol products on our shelves—whether at pharmacies or beauty retailers—will adhere to the 0.3% cap for face products and 0.05% for body lotions. Global brands, which dominate our market, are likely to reformulate universally to comply with EU standards, as industry expert Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz explains: “Brands won’t want to create separate formulas for different regions.” So, even products imported from outside the EU will likely align with these limits.
If you’re loyal to a high-potency retinol, you might want to check with your favourite brands about their reformulation plans or consult a dermatologist for prescription options. Stockpiling isn’t recommended, as retinol loses efficacy over time, but you have until May 2027 to use up non-compliant products bought before the deadline.
How to Prepare Your Beauty Pantry
No need to overhaul your routine just yet—the transition period gives brands and consumers time to adjust. Here’s how to stay savvy:
- Check Your Products: Look at your retinol’s concentration. If it’s above 0.3% for face products, consider switching to a compliant strength to avoid future disruptions.
- Protect Your Skin Barrier: Retinol can be drying, so pair it with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides. I always follow my 0.2% serum with a rich moisturiser to keep my skin balanced in Malta’s sunny climate.
- Explore Alternatives: Bakuchiol, peptides, or niacinamide offer retinol-like benefits with less irritation, ideal for sensitive skin or Malta’s humid summers.
- Consult a Dermatologist: If you’re unsure, a local skin expert can tailor a routine to your needs, whether it’s sticking with retinol or switching to a prescription.
Looking Forward
The EU’s retinol regulation reflects a commitment to consumer safety, ensuring we can enjoy this ingredient without undue risks. The 0.3% cap keeps retinol effective, and clearer labelling empowers us to make informed choices about our vitamin A intake. As a user of 0.2% retinol, I’m confident my routine is future-proof, and I’m curious to see how brands innovate, perhaps with smarter formulations or complementary actives.
This change also reminds us to use retinol wisely, especially in Malta’s sunny climate, where sunscreen is non-negotiable to protect retinol-sensitised skin. The regulation is a step toward safer skincare, and I’m optimistic about the exciting products we’ll see on our shelves.
Let’s Chat!
I’d love to hear from my fellow skincare lovers in Malta and beyond! Do you use retinol, and what’s your go-to concentration? How do you feel about the EU regulations, and will they change your beauty pantry? Share your thoughts in the comments—I can’t wait to hear from you!
Until next time, keep glowing!
